Spring in New York
March 9th, 2010
The spring weather is finally here in NYC if not spring itself. I have been holed up in my studio getting ready for my solo show at A.I.R. Gallery next month (hence neglecting this blog far too long…and more on that later). On Sunday, finally taking advantage of the weather I went out for a brunch in LIC and visited Tino Seghal show at Guggenheim. For the conceptual artist Seghal, who only uses non-exhaustive resources (i.e. humans) for his art, Guggenheim emptied everything from its famous rotunda except “actors” who would engage the museum goers and moving sculptural piece called “Kiss” in the lobby. The effect was disturbing and engaging at the same time. Very crowded, the rotunda somewhat resembled a shopping mall on a busy weekend, but trying to discern “actors” from regular museum goers made an interesting guessing game. But I quickly learned to distinguish them by incongruity of their companion (artsy, hipsterish young guy with two middle aged women, for example) and their enthusiasm.
More importantly for this blog, we went to the Wright, the new fine dining restaurant at the Guggenheim, the hyper-designed white space (with the colorful help from Liam Gillick), which tries a little too hard to be a destination. But it was blissfully uncrowded (probably due to the stiff prices). Ben and I shared lovely glasses of white wine and a pretty but random cheese plate (not worth $18 for 3 tiny slivers of okay cheese with no DOC!). We also ordered a desert, which was advertised as Apple Millefeuille with clove ice cream and chantilly cream. It turned out to be a deconstructed millefeuille, which was fine but another example of trying a little too hard. Despite my snarky comments
, it’s nice to have some place not so snooty but also not a deli to rest weary feet in the desert that is UES after a hard day of museum going.
Tags: apple, desert, museum dining
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Vegetable Soup Cure All
December 22nd, 2009
Okay, so it was Ben’s birthday yesterday, and we went to Daniel for a 3 course dinner to die for. For appetizers, he had mosaic of capon, foie gras, celery root with pickled daikon, mâche and pear confit. I had Maine peekytoe crab salad with celery, walnut oil and Granny Smith sauce. For main, him: Pan seared Millbrook venison loin with barley ragoût, Okinawan sweet potato, roasted foie gras and pickled quince. Me: Roasted squab breast with turnips and clementines and crispy legs, Swiss chard and Kaffir lime-carrot coulis. Dessert, honey crisp apple confit and warm Guanaja chocolate coulant. Everything was super refined and textured and every bite was some explosions of new taste sensations. And of course there were pre- and post-meal extras like amuse-bouche of sweet potatoes and mini Madeleines and petits fours, and glasses of wine. Service was amazingly efficient and friendly, everyone trying to make sure that you have a good time, etc, etc.
Of course, we enjoyed it immensely until I got sick right in the restaurant. My cursed stomach was overwhelmed by too much richness and refinement and decided to rebel. So up came everything in the hushed plush restroom stall. I thanked a restroom deity for the completely sealed private stall. In the end, I paid for it for upset stomach all day today with no eating. I guess that you always pay for your sins (gluttony is one of them, right?) By dinner time, I was hungry, but craving something hot and soothing. Rummaging the vegetable crisper drawers, I took out everything I had: zucchinis, carrots, celery, parsley, thyme, quarter of a red cabbage, radicchio, fennel, Swiss chard stalks (left over from the torte)…Hmm, vegetable soup, obviously was the answer. So I took out a big pot (biggest one I got), and here’s the recipe. Additional ingredients needed: 28 oz. can of whole or diced tomato, tomato paste, and a can of beans of your choice. And staples like onion, garlic, salt and pepper.
- Chop 1 head of onion and 5 garlic cloves. Brown them in olive oil and add a heaping spoonful of tomato paste and continue to cook it until everything is evenly coated with tomato paste.
- Put about 1/4 of all the chopped vegetables that are going to be used in the pot and continue sautéing. Season with salt and pepper. I put some vegetables early on to increase the soup flavor and some later for crispier texture.
- Make bouquet garnis of fennel stalks, Swiss chard stalks, parsley, thyme, bay leaves. Add to the pot.
- Add the can of chopped tomato or whole tomato chopped by you.
- Add my secret ingredient: parmesan cheese rinds. I save the rinds left at the end of grating cheese in the freezer and add little pieces when I make soup. Greatly increases complexity of the broth.
- Put water to cover slightly more than half the pot. Bring it to boil, then simmer for 10-15 minutes to develop flavor.
- Add the rest of the vegetables (I like half inch cubes in my soup) and a can of garbanzo beans (or cannelloni beans or your favorite any beans, but rinse and drain beforehand).
- Simmer until all the veggies are cooked. Add more salt and pepper.
It is nice to mince some fresh parsley and fennel fronds and add them to the soup bowl as a finishing touch. Ben likes his with a little bit of grated parmesan cheese and toasted cheesy bread. The broth really settled my stomach so I can eat again!
Tags: cabbage, carrots, celery, parmigiano-reggiano, soup, swiss chard, vegetarian
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Braised Tofu in Caramel Sauce
December 20th, 2009
I was tempted by the recipe in today’s New York Times Magazine, especially because of the over-indulgence of last couple of days (paella feast at Socarrat (Paella Valenciana!!!) and the Christmas party). A simple vegetarian meal of tofu and rice sounded wonderful and restorative. I also wanted to make Manchurian Cauliflower, but thanks to the lack of cauliflower, Manchurian Cauliflower became Manchurian Broccoli. I found the recipe easy enough, but consuming way too many pots and pans. I would make the tofu dish again, but next time with a little more soy sauce and an addition of red jalapeno peppers. I might also make the caramel sauce by combining all the ingredients together (including tofu) and simmering it until the sauce caramelizes (may need to reduce the amount of sugar). I thought the braised tofu was a little too bland and sweet. On the other hand, Manchurian Broccoli was so good and addictive, I felt like I was eating French fries. But I will only use 1 or 2 eggs in the batter since broccoli does not absorb the batter very much. I might even try dry batter frying next time. But overall, entirely satisfying meal and if we substitute water with eggs in the batter, completely vegan feast.
Tags: braise, broccoli, caramel sauce, tofu, vegetarian
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Tegliata di Biete – Swiss Chard Torte with Raisins and Pine Nuts
December 20th, 2009
Tegliata di Biete or Swiss Chard Torte with Raisins and Pine Nuts is a Venetian dish that shows the influence of exotic flavors from Near East and Venice’s role as an important trader. I love making this dish because of its complex flavor and versatility. Served at room temperature, it can be made ahead, and it is a perfect party food (vegetarian and crowd pleasing). Yesterday I made this torte for a Christmas party at Hein’s (Thanks, Hein!), where all kinds of yummy finger foods were to be had, in addition to Hein’s excellent and beautiful Bûche de Noël. The torte recipe is from Marcella Hazan’s Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking (pp. 490-92). The recipe is not very complicated or hard, but Ms. Hazan, per usual, gives a very exacting multi-process recipe. Here is the condensed version of the recipe.
- 2 1/2 Lbs young Swiss chard
- Salt
- 1/4 cup Extra virgin olive oil
- 2/3 cup onion chopped fine
- 1 cup grated parmigiano-reggiano
- 2 eggs, lightly beaten
- 1/4 cup pignoli (pine nuts)
- 1/3 raisins soaking in enough water to cover
- Black pepper
- 10″ springform baking pan
- 2/3 heaping cup unflavored bread crumbs, lightly toasted
- The swiss chard is sliced, cleaned and boiled in the salted water.
- After excess water is squeezed out, the chard is chopped finer and sauteed in olive oil and onion.
- Now, the cooked chard is combined with pine nuts, soaked raisins, grated parmigiano-reggiano and eggs.
- In a springform pan, spread bread crumbs and olive oil and add the chard mixture evenly across. Top it with more bread crumbs and olive oil, and bake it in the 350 degree oven for 40 minutes.
If I am going to be pressed for time, I sometimes boil the chard and chop it up one day before I need the torte since cleaning the chard can be a time consuming process (to avoid having gritty torte).
Tags: appetizer, parmigiano-reggiano, raisin, swiss chard, torte, vegetarian
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Brisket of Beef with Pan-fried Potatoes and Cole Slaw
December 16th, 2009

Brisket of Beef with Potatoes and Cole Slaw
In celebration of the 6th night of Chanukah
, I made the brisket of beef. It’s a very simple recipe with very short list of ingredients but with a lot of flavor. Here is the recipe.
- 1 5-6 Lbs first-cut brisket of beef
- 1-2 Tbsp unbleached all-purpose flour
- Coarsely ground black pepper
- 1/4 cup vegetable oil
- 8 onions, thickly sliced and separated into rings
- enough tomato paste to cover the brisket
- salt
- 2-3 cloves garlic
- 2 whole peeled carrots
- Preheat the oven to 375°F. Trim the fat from the brisket and dust the meat with flour and black pepper.
- Brown the brisket in the oil in a large brasier or casserole with a lid that can go into the oven.
- When both sides of the meat are brown, take it out and set it aside. Cook the onions in the same pan until they are soft and nut brown. Turn off heat.
- Place the brisket on top of the onions and spread the tomato paste on the meat like icing. Place carrots and quartered garlic cloves on top of it. Salt. Cook the covered casserole in the oven for 1 1/2 hours.
- Take the brisket out of the pan, and slice it thin (1/8″). Taste and adjust seasoning. Put the sliced meat back in the pot and fan it out. Cook in the oven covered for another 2 hours. The meat should be pork-tender.
It’s very time consuming, but most of the cooking time is spent in the oven, so it would be a good dish to make when you are doing stuff around the house all day. I wanted to serve this with latke, but by dinner time, I was too tired, and made simple pan-fried potatoes and red cabbage cole slaw with roasted beets and celery. I diced the potatoes small so that they would cook quickly. I pan fried them in a mixture of vegetable oil and butter on a large nonstick frying pan. I am looking forward to lots and lots of left-over brisket for salads and sandwiches for days to come.
Tags: beef, brisket, cole slaw, potato, red cabbage, slow roast
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Korean Chinese better than American Chinese?
December 16th, 2009

Tukpaeki with Tobiko
I had dinner at Shanghai Mong, a Korean-Chinese restaurant on 32nd Street with Ben last night. It’s the only Chinese place on the strip of all Korean restaurants. I normally go there to eat Jajangmyeon (also spelled jjajangmyeon; 자장면; 짜장면), which consists of thick wheat noodles topped with a thick sauce made of chunjang (a salty black soybean paste), diced meat and vegetables, and sometimes also seafood. This is a very popular dish, especially among students and “salaryman,” for lunch and after-drink refueling. And one of my favorites. When I lived in San Francisco, this was one of the dishes that I missed the most from Korea. But I felt like something different this time and ordered Rajoki, deep fried chicken nuggets with hot and spicy sauce. This is different from General Tso’s chicken since the chicken is battered and fried lighter, and lots of vegetables and mushrooms come with the chicken. Also if it is possible, even more garlics are used for Rajoki, and this is one of the distinctions of Korean style Chinese food. Lighter and even stronger flavors, just like other Korean food. Ben ordered something very unusual called Tukpaeki, which actually refers to the stone bowl. This was a very unusual combination of Chinese style fried rice with Kimchi (!) that was topped with raw Tobiko (flying fish roe). Very adventurous of Ben, and he loved it. Both dishes were perfect for a cold night. Oh, one last thing that is better about Korean Chinese restaurants: pickled veggies. They always served pickled daikon radish, regular Korean Kimchi, and pickled cucumber at Shanghai Mong. Yum.
Tags: chicken, Chinese, Kimchi, noodle
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Thai Noodle Salad with Chicken
December 8th, 2009

Thai Noodle Salad with Chicken
What’s for dinner? Ah, the eternal question, especially when the refrigerator seems almost bare and you are exhausted from working all day. I looked inside my fridge and faced that dilemma tonight. And my stomach cried, “Hungry, feed me!” But all I saw was a head of red cabbage and some left over rotisserie chicken from WholeFoods. Further investigation yielded some carrots and green onions. What can I do with these meager offerings? Well, I thought some cabbage slaw salad with chicken, but since I can’t really eat raw vegetables nowadays (my cursed stomach problems
, but then again today is the first day I actually felt hungry in two weeks!), I thought maybe a variation on Pad Thai. I ended up making a noodle salad with sauteed cabbage, carrots and chicken in peanut sauce.
First, I boiled the water for the noodle (no egg noodles, no problem, I had linguini) while julienning cabbage, carrots and celery. I think that you want to start cooking noodles here and make the peanut sauce, which I will come back to. Shred the rotisserie chicken for a little protein (BTW, such a useful thing to have around for quick meals). Or cube tofu to add to vegetables to be sauteed. Then, I sliced one onion thinly and sautéed it in a bit of vegetable oil. I added the veggies and cooked very briefly until it is just cooked through. When the noodles are cooked, you rinse it in cold water (the Asian noodle treatment!). I would have actually just wilted the vegetables by pouring hot pasta water over vegetables and skipped the sautéing if my digestive systems were more robust. Toss everything together. Voilà, your dinner. I usually put some sliced scallion and sesame seeds on top to finish off. 20 minutes.
Peanut sauce: peanut butter (about 2-3 Tsp), Vietnamese fish sauce (3-6 tsp), rice wine vinegar (1-3 tsp), sugar (1 tsp), soy sauce, sesame oil, Sriracha sauce, salt, pepper, lime juice
I start out with smaller amount of each ingredient to start out and keep adjusting according to my taste test. Add maybe 1-2 Tsp of water to thin out the sauce.
Tags: cabbage, chicken, noodle, peanut butter, salad
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Canard aux framboises
December 6th, 2009

Canard aux framboises
I am kicking off my food blog with the dish I made for Thanksgiving even though Thanksgiving is only a memory now, and we are all gearing for Christmas and New Year’s holidays. But I thought this duck dish would be very good for any special occasions, and pretty easy to make, too.
Since I am not a big fan of turkey (too damn unwieldy and bland), I try to get out making turkey every year, and this year I decided to stick to the poultry theme and make a duck dish, especially since I love duck (that is to eat). I could eat duck confit everyday if money and health were not an issue (details, details…). As it turned out, I got sick on Thanksgiving day with wicked stomach aches, so I ended up making this as a Sunday dinner.
Tags: demi-glace, duck, raspberry, special dinner
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